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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.